Paella 西班牙海鮮飯

by Patricia Manley

I had my first taste of paella while living in Argentina as a teenager. Families in our neighborhood would drop off the large, round shallow pans called ‘paelleras’ (for which the dish is named) with a local restaurant on Sunday morning. After church, we’d walk home carrying the warm pan, now filled with delicious paella. Placed in the center of the table, paella is a one-dish meal combining meats, seafood, and vegetables in saffron-scented rice. It is a dish that invites conversation and sharing.

我少女時期住在阿根廷的時候,第一次品嗜到西班牙海鮮飯。星期天早上,附近的人家會將自己家淺淺的大圓鍋叫paelleras (paella這道菜,命名的淵由)送到當地的餐館。上過教堂之後,回家的路上,就可以端著走,鍋子還溫溫的,此時盛滿了美味可口的海鮮飯。西班牙海鮮飯是可以獨當一面的大鍋菜,上菜時擺在桌子的正中央,有蕃紅花香的米飯,配上肉食,海鮮,和蔬菜,這道菜適合親友共享,讓大家吃得興高采烈。

Later, when I was a student in Spain – where paella is considered the national dish – I tasted paellas in every part of the country. I bought a paellera of my own in the open air market of Madrid. I still use it, though one can easily adapt any skillet or other wide, shallow metal pan to make it on the stove and in the oven.

我後來也在西班牙唸過書 – 在那兒,西班牙海鮮飯是國寶級的名菜 ,我嚐遍了全國各地不同口味的海鮮飯。在馬德里市的露天市場,我買了一把海鮮飯專用的大圓鍋,到現在我還在使用。其實也不是非要用paellera來烹調不可,大可隨機應變。一般可以上火爐和進烤箱的金屬鍋,只要是鍋面寬大扁平的,都可以。

The most memorable taste of paella I’ve ever had, though, was in upstate New York. Spanish families treated their English teachers, including me, to an authentic version of the dish cooked outdoors over an open wood fire. I am eager to recreate that experience each time I prepare the dish for friends.

所有的西班牙海鮮飯中,就屬我在紐約州北部吃到的滋味最令人難忘。一群移居到那裏的西班牙家庭,請了包括我在內的英語老師吃飯。他們的是最道地的作法,是在屋外用柴薪旺火來燒烤成的海鮮飯。我會自己下廚請朋友吃海鮮飯,就是一心想要重新營造這一個美食經驗。

Although each cook’s version differs according to their taste, all authentic paellas contain the same key ingredients: short grain rice that cooks without breaking (and therefore absorbs maximum flavor over other types of rice), olive oil, and saffron. ‘Bomba’ is the traditional Spanish rice for the dish, though any short grain rice may be substituted. To impart a smoky flavor without cooking over an open fire, I use smoked Spanish paprika. It’s readily available in spice shops such as Penzey’s in Philadelphia, which also carries saffron. (8528 Germantown Ave., Philadelphia, Pa 19118, www.penzeys.com)

雖然西班牙海鮮飯可以按個人偏好,在作法上作不同的變化,正宗的西班牙海鮮飯一定要有如下的主要材料:耐煮的短米 (比其他的品種更能吸收湯汁的精華),橄欖油,和番紅花。作這道菜,一般是要用來自西班牙的Bomba米,可是其他品牌的短米也可以代替。爲了讓海鮮飯,不須用薪火燒烤也有一股薰香,我多加了西班牙熏辣椒粉paprika. 熏辣椒粉在香料店有得買,如費城的Penzey’s (8528 Germantown Ave., Philadelphia, Pa 19118, www.penzeys.com)。Penzey’s也銷售番紅花。

Paella Photo

Paella for Six 六人份的西班牙海鮮飯

1/2 boneless chicken breast and 2 boneless chicken thighs, cut into smaller pieces 雞胸肉半塊,雞大腿兩隻,去骨切小塊

5 tbsp. olive oil 橄欖油五大匙

Salt, pepper to taste 塩,胡椒,依個人口味調配

1 tsp. smoked Spanish paprika, pimentón, or any sweet paprika 熏辣椒粉一小匙

1 medium onion chopped 中型洋蔥一顆,切丁

3 cloves of garlic minced 蒜頭三瓣,切末

½ lb. medium shrimp, shelled and deveined 中號蝦子半磅,去殼,去汚腸

½ lb. cleaned squid, cut into rings 墨魚半磅,洗淨,切成圈圈

1½ c. short grain rice 短米一杯半

½ c. peeled, finely chopped tomatoes with juice, canned or fresh 番茄半杯,去皮切丁,保留原汁,新鮮或罐裝皆可

2 c. low sodium chicken or fish stock, or water 低塩高湯(雞或海鮮),或開水,兩杯

4 tbsp. chopped flat leaf parsley 洋香菜四大匙,切末

1 bay leaf 月桂樹葉一片

½ tsp. packed saffron stems 小包裝的番紅花柱半小匙

½ c. dry white wine 淡白酒半杯

1 dozen littleneck clams 小蛤蜊一打

1 dozen mussels 淡菜一打

1 c. shelled fresh or frozen peas 豌豆仁一杯, 冷凍或新鮮皆可

Lemon wedges and parsley for garnish 檸檬切片,洋香菜當點綴

In a small saucepan, add bay leaf to stock or water and simmer.

高湯,月桂樹葉,裝在小鍋子裏,低火煨熱。

In a small bowl, soak saffron in white wine to release yellow color.

番紅花放在小碗裏,加入白酒,泡開備用。

On top of stove, heat a large, shallow sauté pan (or paella pan) over medium high heat and add olive oil. Season chicken pieces with salt and pepper and brown starting with skin side down, approximately 6 minutes. Remove partially cooked chicken pieces to a clean plate. Add paprika, onion and garlic to pan and cook until onion is soft, about 4 minutes, stirring often to prevent garlic from burning.

淺平的大鍋子(或海鮮飯鍋)在爐上以中火燒熱後,加橄欖油。雞片加塩,胡椒調味,在熱鍋裏煎香,(先煎有雞皮的一面,再煎反面,)大約六分鐘。雞肉不用全熟,起鍋後,裝盤備用。熱鍋裏,加熏辣椒粉,洋蔥,蒜末,炒至洋葱變軟,大約四分鐘。不時攪拌,以免蒜末燒焦。

Add shrimp and stir to brown quickly. Remove shrimp from pan to chicken plate.

加蝦,快炒至蝦仁轉白,鏟出備用。

Add rice to pan and stir to coat rice with olive oil in pan.

米入鍋,以鍋裏的餘油翻炒均勻。

Add white wine and saffron to rice mixture and stir to loosen browned bits. Once wine is bubbling and has reduced a bit, add tomatoes and juice, heated stock or water with bay leaf, chopped parsley, and peas. Simmer for 10 minutes.

把白酒和番紅花倒入炒香的米,攪拌幾下,順手刮清鍋面。酒開始滾沸,稍微收乾之後,加入帶汁的番茄,月桂葉調味過也熱過的高湯,洋香菜末,豌豆仁。一共煨煮十分鐘。

Stir chicken and squid into rice. Cover pan and simmer until rice is almost cooked, for about 20 minutes. In the open pan, push mussels and clams gently into rice, then arrange shrimp on top and continue cooking, covered, until shells open and rice is cooked through (adding a bit more stock if necessary). Remove from heat, and let sit for 10 minutes before serving from the pan at the table.

雞肉,墨魚,入鍋和米粒炒勻。蓋上鍋蓋, 小火把飯煮成八分熟,大約二十分鐘。掀開鍋子,將淡菜,蛤蜊一個個嵌入飯內,然後將蝦子平舖在上,加蓋後繼續煮二十分鐘,至米熟透,貝殼全開,(太乾的話,可以添加少量高湯。)熄火後,再燜蓋十分鐘,即可整鍋上桌供食。

Garnish with lemon wedges and additional chopped parsley. Enjoy with Spanish rosé or red wine.

加上檸檬片和洋香菜做點綴。這道菜配上西班牙玫瑰酒,或紅酒,就更享受了。

Translated by Fenching Wainstein 周芬青譯

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