My Tea with Deborah 與 黛柏拉 喫午茶

by Deborah Kaplan/Fenching Wainstein

Before Miel Patisserie, and long before Belle Cakery, Deborah Kaplan helped define for the boomer generation of Philadelphians the meaning of European gastronomical flair. Kaplan operated SUD Fine Pastry in South Philadelphia for 30 years. She was featured in a 1989 Philadelphia Inquirer article for her extravagant wedding and party cakes and rich continental style pastries.

對嬰兒潮時代的費城人來說,Deborah Kaplan 在蜂蜜法式西點 (Miel Patisserie) 和佳人糕餅房 (Belle Cakery) 先後開業之前, 就有帶動「歐式美食技藝」之功。地處南費城的 SUD 精緻西點坊, 由她經營了一共三十年。一九八九年費城問詢報對她造型華麗的喜慶蛋糕, 及醇美濃郁的歐風西點, 刋登了一篇專文。

Q: My sister and I went to Montreal, Canada, recently. We had tea at the city’s illustrious Ritz Hotel. There, finally, after all these long years, I came across scones that could match yours in taste and texture. Buttery. A perfect balance of give and resistance. When SUD closed in 2007 did you have mobs of people bidding for your scone recipe?

問:我和妹妹最近到加拿大的蒙特利爾,在當地頂頂有名的麗池飯店 (Ritz Carlton) 喫了英式下午茶。這麼多年來,我總算嚐到那味道口感,和妳作的,都有得比的英國鬆餅 (scones)。 奶香濃郁, 軟脆適中。2007年, SUD 停止營業的時候,有沒有很多人出價,收買妳烘烤鬆餅的密方呀?

A: Yes, that did happen. An employee passed on that recipe to me, so I can’t lay claim to it. But, we played with flavors and variations. In addition to the customer cake business, we provided scones and other pastries to all major cafés and restaurants in Center City. Today, there would have been too much competition. Besides, there’s a treasure trove of information right on the internet, including scone recipes.

答: 說有也有。只是這是人家給我的食譜, 我可不敢冒功, 我們倒是在口味上作了些變化。除了特製蛋糕的生意之外, 我們的英國家鬆餅和其他的西點在城裏有名氣的咖啡屋和餐館,大部分都有銷售。現在的餐飲市場競爭太大了。再說, 網路上的資訊千種百樣,多得很,鬆餅的食譜缺不了的。

Q: Your timing was fortunate?

問:是因為時機好,才生意興隆嗎?

A: I started the business at a time in the U.S. when there were no cafés to sit and have a latte and a scone with friends. Anything considered ‘gourmet’ you read about in Gourmet Magazine, or drove to New York City or flew to Paris to experience. We knew the Europeans had something we didn’t – centuries of mingling al fresco with friends over elegant éclairs and mille-feuilles, rustic semolina tortes, toothsome dacquoises, buttercreams and ganache. How could we call ourselves human?

答:我開業的時候,在美國找不到一家可以和朋友閑坐,喝杯義大利咖啡,吃塊英式鬆餅的咖啡屋。凡是够格的美食要不是翻看「美食家雜誌」,就得開車到紐約或搭飛機到巴黎,才能體驗到。我們知道歐洲人比較早開竅 - 好友相聚,露天而憩,那是傳衍已久的習俗 - 高雅的泡芙和千層糕, 鄉土氣的粗麵粉蛋糕,耐嚼的蛋白酥皮奶油捲,糖霜奶油,巧克力糖膏。我們算是文明人嗎?

Q: So opening a café was your response to this existential angst?

問:那麼說,創開一家咖啡屋是妳應付生存焦慮的處方?

A: Yes, my story starts in response to that question.

答:是的,我的所作所為都是針對這個問題出發的。

Q: Did you have formal training in culinary art?

問:妳受過正式的廚藝訓練嗎?

A: Not really. I graduated from college with a fine arts degree majoring in ceramics. For years after college, I trained and performed as a dancer. The café I opened with a friend in 1977 was a first for me, and for Philadelphia – all black and mirror with original art work – the pastry case in the premier spot (its rightful place). Each day I chose six dessert recipes from Craig Claiborne’s cookbooks and made them.

答:並沒有。我大學專修陶磁藝術,拿到了藝術系的學位。畢業後,我接受舞蹈訓練也從事表演工作了好幾年。一九七七年我和朋友合開的咖啡屋,對我,對費城來說,都算是新鮮經驗。內部無色系的裝潢,鑲鏡片,掛滿了原版的藝術品,裝糕點的櫥窗理所當然擺在最搶眼的地方。每天,我從紐約時報 Craig Claiborne 的食譜選出六種甜點,照著食譜作。

Q: You eventually became the city’s premier wedding-cake designer. How did that happen?

問:妳後來是費城首屈一指的結婚蛋糕設計師,談談妳的成名過程吧?

A: Three years after opening my first café, I opened SUD Culinary Productions (operating as SUD Fine Pastry). My first wedding cake commission was for an art dealer specializing in Art Deco. To my knowledge, there were no custom cake makers in Philadelphia at that time and I remember her having to ask me several times before I agreed to do it. The feeling of responsibility threw me into weeks of reading, designing and drawing. I commissioned a friend to make a Deco-style dancing nude for the top of the croque-en-bouche and covered two side cakes with overlapping, white chocolate sheets donned with fresh anemones.

答:咖啡屋開業三年後,SUD 精緻西點坊也開張了。最先跟我訂製結婚蛋糕的是一位專賣裝飾派藝術的藝品商人。據我所知,那時候費城還沒有訂製特別造型設計的結婚蛋糕的風氣,我記得她問了我好幾次,我才答應。我感覺責任重大,花了好幾個星期的時間,看書,設計,作圖。焦糖奶油作成的法式結婚蛋糕(croque-en-bouche),頂層一個亭亭起舞,有裝飾藝術風的裸女塑像,是我委託朋友作的。兩旁的蛋糕重覆裹了一層層的白巧克力,有新鮮的銀蓮花作點綴。

Q: Your training was in fine arts. Was it your goal to turn pastry into art, or turn art into pastry?

問: 妳是藝術科班出身的 -妳的目標是將糕餅藝術化, 還是將藝術化為糕餅?

A: I found an immediate relationship between cake decorating and potter’s wheels. And so many tools to play with! Having a rich history of ‘materials’ and techniques to draw from, I found myself moving into a creative field that was wide open to discovery and imagination. For 30 years, my fascination with design pushed me into the world of pastry art. I designed and then said, “How can I build that?”

答:我發現裝飾糕餅和陶工旋盤,在操作上環環相扣。有那麼多工具可以玩,無論原料或是技巧都有豐碩的史料可以參考。我發現自己踏入一個廣濶的創作空間,任由我去探索和想像。前後三十年,我對設計的熱愛,讓我在糕餅藝術的天地裏也能得心應手。我先搞設計,然後才問說,「這設計,怎麼樣才作得出來?」

Q: About that scone recipe…

問:至於那英國鬆餅的作法?

A: Here it is:

答:參考如下。

For approximately 10 scones. 大約十個鬆餅

1 1/3 cups heavy whipping cream 鮮奶油 一又三分之一杯

2 cups all-purpose flour 麵粉 兩杯

1/3 cups sugar 糖 三分之一杯

1 tbsp. baking powder 泡打粉 一大匙

1/4 tsp. salt 塩 四分之一小匙

3 tbsp. cinnamon sugar 肉桂糖粉 三大匙

1 tbsp. melted unsalted butter 無塩奶油 (融化),一大匙

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. 烤箱預熱到華氏四百度。

Line a baking sheet with wax paper. 蠟紙舖在烘餅鐵板上。

Whip cream to soft whip in a large bowl. 鮮奶油用大碗裝,打發成半固態。

Sift flour, sugar, powder, and salt together, and add to whipped cream in the bowl. Mix into a soft dough. 加入共篩過的麵粉,糖,泡打粉,塩。和鮮奶油攪拌成糰。

Turn out on lightly floured surface and knead into a rope. 在淸潔的桌面上,灑少許麵粉,麵糰放在桌面上用手揉成條狀。

DO NOT OVER MIX or KNEAD. 不要過度攪拌,不要過度揉揑。

Roll out to ½ inch thick and cut into triangles 3’/4’. 麵條擀成半吋厚,切成底邊三吋,斜邊四吋的三角形。

Brush tops with melted butter and sprinkle with cinnamon sugar. 表面刷上融化的奶油,灑上肉桂糖粉。

Bake for approximately 10 minutes or until the bottoms of the scones turn brown. 放入烤箱,烤到鬆餅底部呈金黃包,大約十分鐘。

Remove to cooling racks, but best eaten fresh and hot! 出烤箱後,在網架上放涼。可是趁著新鮮,趁熱吃,口味最佳。

Serve with sweet butter or clotted cream or preserves. 伴著甜奶油,凝脂奶油,或果醬,一起吃。

Translated by Fenching Wainstein 周芬青譯
Cake8

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